Since this is the first time I'm using it, this will just be just a generic review. First off, for those still contemplating between a monochrome (black and white) fishfinder and a color one. I would definitely have to say go color. It takes a lot of guesswork out of the equation. Don't get me wrong, I love my X96. It not only gets the job done, but it is also packed with features that are found in more expensive units. But there are times when I have to stop and say "what the heck is that?" Anyway, the 510C made it easier for me to differentiate the different bottom compositions and clearly showed rocks on the sandy bottom. Like the X96, the X510C is loaded with features which oughta keep me busy trying to figure out what each one does. The 480 x 480, 5" display is great and shows better detail than the 320 x 320, 5" display of the X96. I've heard about how it is sometimes hard to see the picture while wearing polarized glasses, but I didn't experience it once the whole time on the water. It is easily seen, even in direct sunlight. Although, water spots can get annoying and if you try to wipe it off, it leaves streaks on the screen; which is more annoying than looking at just one or two water spots. Surprisingly, it didn't suck up as much battery juice than I expected. Then again, I only fished for 5hrs. and not the usual 8 today. My only real gripe so far is it seems to be a little on the slow side when using the Auto Depth Range. If I'm in 40ft. of water then move up to 20ft. of water, it still shows 40ft. on the depth bar and since I am now in 20ft., I get a double echo. Again, since this is the first time I've used it, I pretty much kept everything in the default factory settings for most of the day. I'll have to play with it a little bit more the next time out. Currently, this is how I have it set:

Sensitivity: 80%
Ping speed: 50%
Scroll speed: 75%
Surface noise rejection: LOW
Noise rejection: LOW
Auto Depth Range: ON

Thinking of just using the manual mode instead of the Auto Depth Range since it is pretty simple to adjust manually. Any of you out there with this unit or similar have any other suggestions on what I might want to consider changing?

Here are some pics. Sorry for the quality of the pics, but I left the camera at home and just used my Blackberry.

Hi KNB,

Thanks for posting this review. As I mentioned in the other post, "I never use full-auto-mode with any of my electronics. I might use the auto range for depth on the unit I have at my console while driving the boat, but when I am fishing and searching, I adjust all my settings while I am exploring."

Although there are many options in your Lowrance menu, the ones that you will be using the most are the ones that you listed above. Because you are in a float tube, I'm not sure how much impact the "noise rejection" will have...

Another setting you might find useful in the "zoom" feature. You can make quick changes with the ZOUT/ZIN buttons. When looking at the first picture you posted, the bass you were targeting were relating to a piece of cover in 28' of water. The one "arch" to the left of what looks like a brush pile (I'd play with the sensitivity and zoom to get a better idea of what that really is) is easy to spot, but did you notice the second one that appears to be inside that piece of cover? This is where the zoom & sensitivity can help you "fine tune" what you are looking at. Ping speed and Scroll speed will also make a difference while you are in motion. Since you are in a float tube (and I didn't see a 150hp motor on the back) you shouldn't need to have the Scroll speed to high(Your choice of 75% should work fine). If you wanted to watch the movement of your lure (and fish) on the screen, then you would want to increase both the "ping and scroll" speeds.

Back to sensitivity and zoom. As you back off the sensitivity (decrease %) you will start to remove the smaller particals and pieces of the cover. If you play with this, you can actually make the brush pile almost disappear and reveal only the arches (fish) that are hiding inside of the brush pile. When you are zoomed in on a depth zone, you are using the same number of pixels to draw a smaller picture. The best way to get a sense for how this works is to scroll through your "menu" and adjust your view so that you have a split screen. There is an option that shows one side in full view (from surface to bottom) and the other showing a "zoomed area" focused on a bottom range (which you can adjust). You might want to that range to be from 20' to 30'... you'll still pick up those smaller arches in the full view, nut be able to get a closer look at the primary cover you are targeting.

Before I go any further, is this the kind of information you were looking for, or did you have something else in mind? Let me know...

Brendan

Great advice as always Brendan!

This may also help those that wish to tinker:
http://www.hightechfishing.com/lowrancetips.html


Bassin
Butch

That's a neat little website Butch... thanks for sharing, I;m sure people will find it very helpful.

You also reminded me of something else that people might like checking out (at least for lowrance), Product Emulators:

http://www.lowrance.com/en/Downloads/Product-Emulators/

You can download basically a virtual unit to try out. It's great to just play around with if you are planning on purchasing a particular unit. It's also great when you just want to be able to browse the menu options without having to be in your boat.

BC

Thanks for the tips Brendan. I did play with the split/zoom feature for a little while during the trip. Also, the sonar simulator from the Lowrance site is really neat to play with when not on the water. Especially for someone new to sonar such as myself.

Butch, thanks for the link. A lot of helpful information on that site. Now, I want want a unit with gps. LOL

lol... once you start finding stuff in open water on your electronics, that's when you really see the value of a GPS/SONAR combo!