How do you rate the fishing ability of Hair Jigs?

Do you use them?

What conditions would cause you to throw a hair jig?

Preferred colors and weight?

Thanks up front. JoeMo

This should prove to be a very informative post, as hair jig methods vary greatly across different parts of the country. I know that in Kentucky/Tennessee and other areas, hair jigs have long been a staple for smallmouth fisherman, popularized by the recently-passed fishing great Billy Westmoreland.

In Ohio, though, we face dingier water, smaller fish and lots of largemouths! Hair jigs are definitely a part of my tournament arsenal, and I particularly prefer them in the early spring. They often will outperform a standard jig and pig in cold water. Hair has a unique action and bulk that bass in colder water react to.

It's a "finesse-flipping" technique, which sounds like an oxymoron but is really an effective method of catching lethargic or pressured bass in cover. I limit my colors to black or brown combinations, usually in the 1/8oz size. I like to tip them with a modified 101 spin frog, and flip/pitch them with standard baitcasting equipment to rip-rap, lay downs and weed edges. Vertical fall is paramount. Hair jigs can also be effective in the warmer months when the bass have seen too many standard jigs. Hair jigs tend to be a little smaller and more subtle, and sometimes using a bait a little different can trigger a tough bite.

Hair jigs are definitely worth a try. Some of the best tournament anglers in Ohio's history have made incredible amounts of money on the strength of hair jig bass.

Hair jigs have been around longer than I have and that says something about them! We have used hair jigs tipped with Uncle Josh's Split Tail Eel for years fishing at night on Bull Shoals and Table Rock Lakes. I prefer hair jigs anytime I'm fishing clear water. It's makes a more compact bait that looks real. Hair has a much more fluid action than living rubber. I almost always use black on black, but during the daylight hours I'll use a brown hair jig tipped with a brown/orange eel. Hair jigs also hold scent attractants much longer than rubber which saves you money. Of course, by using hair jigs you also eliminate the chance of ruining other baits that come in contact with the jig. Rubber skirts will melt into crankbaits and ruin them. One note I'm sure my fishing partner Dan Galusha will mention is, the "Legend", Virgil Ward got his start in the tackle business by selling homemade hair jigs. Good enough for Virgil-good enough for Johnnie!! Johnnie Crain Iowa Pro Staff.

Brian & Johnnie- Two excellent responses!
Using the hair jig in the Spring and Fall seems natural. What about in the Summer? Or are the other available baits more productive in the Summer?

Thanks for posting. JoeMo

Joe, I'm not on the Prostaff but I am a big fan of hair jigs.
I got turned on to the Float N Fly many years ago by Charlie Nuckols. He was featured several times in Bassmaster. He even shared his secrets with me for tying it. He has since passed away but his brother Ed has also helped me out with some questions. One thing both taught me was to trim the crafthair or bucktail so it is what most people consider sparse. By this, you can actaully see the hook through the hair. These days jigs are made with an over abundance of hair to make them look good to the angler.
I use the hair jig in two ways. The traditional cold water tech. of F+F under a slip bobber and without a float as a seeker rig in the spring. I use it here like an ultra slow moving jig n pig yet it is hardly weedless. It is great when the bottom grass is just starting to grow. I like a light 5-6 to 6ft spinning rod with 4 or 6lb test. I creep the bait on the bottom ever so slowly.
I'm also friendly with Phil Shafer of Missouri, who I'm actually going to fish with in the Ozarks next week. This man has made some of the prettiest, most natural looking jigs I've ever seen. Works or art that I'm actually afraid of losing at times.
He makes a few custom colors for me including perch and shiner imitations. I like both 1/16oz and 1/8oz models. Funny thing about most hair jigs that you can buy.....they rarely come with a good needlepoint hook. The F+F is the only one with a Gammie. I use these bait most often in cold water under 50 degrees. Any warmer and I'm jig n pigging. You can also fish this bait through pods of bait you locate on your graph. Just keep the line taut. In Summer, I would switch to different baits to be more effective. I never use a trailer anymore on my hair jigs. In the beginning of my fishing day, I got hooked up with an old timer from Kentucky who taught me how to fish the Fly and Rind. It is basically a small hair jig tipped with a small pork strip. It can be awesome in cold water.

MMT- Your posts continue to contribute greatly to the entire BUSA Message Board system. My point in specifying Pro Staffers was to be sure that those PS not on the road could contribute to this thread. Others such as yourself can contribute to any of our boards at any time.

I am a fan of the late Charlie Nuckols. A friend of mine who is a minister went into the water to retrieve his boat the same week that Charlie did, but in his case he survived. He has told me that after reading of Charlie's death, he would never do that again. Nor will I.

As to the Float N Fly, Pres. Brendan showed me the technique last week up here on my lake. We were able to catch bass with spinnerbaits and Jig & Pig, so the FNF will have to wait until the others fail the test!

Phil's Jigs are definitely works of art. I believe the infamous (lol) JohnG showed me some of Phil's masterpieces last year. My LI friend Pat McN also puts out a super hair jig in many styles and colors. I am able to catch every species of fish in my lake except Grass Carp on Pat's hair jigs. (Of course if I ever solve that problem, I will NOT practice Catch & Release!)

Again Craig, thank you for contributing. If you ever do a feature article on FNF, it would be great if you posted it here. Much obliged. JoeMo

I also agree with what Brian was saying about fishing them when the bite is tuff. Aside from their seasonal use, I have found that hair jigs can be effective during and after heavy frontal conditions. Sometimes when fish shut down, a 1/32 – 1/8 oz “sparse” hair jig can trigger strikes on those really tuff days. I always have a box full of jigs in my boat and a med-light action, spinning rod in my rod locker, just in case.

They are also very effective when you are learning to identify fish species with your electronics. Have you ever driven over a school of fish and were not sure of the species? Drop a tiny hair jig down to them and find out exactly what they are...

BC

Folks- Believe me, if Brendan says there is an '88 Corvette under the boat in 12 ft of water, I would just ask him what color. (Hair jigs have taught him well. He's that good)

I'm serious; not just being nice to the boss.
JoeMo

Actually, I did write an article on F+F's a while back.. I'll put it up eventually. I don't want to spoil you guys though!

Alright Joe, I lied, here it is....(sorry that it lined up all screwy like)

Cold Water Gold-Hair Jigs
The Cold Water Wonders.....HAIR JIGS
by Craig DeFronzo

Technique: Using hair jigs to put early Spring bass in the boat One of the first baits I throw after the ice melts is a hair jig. These small bait fish imitators are realistic and subtle. Early season bass have little trouble eating a well placed hair creation. Hair jigs can be fished a number of different ways, making them extremely versatile. Although most people who use those baits work them in mid to deep water, I have discovered a couple of skinny water methods that are deadly. I got my introduction to hair jigs from two masters of deep South smallmouth fishing. One angler from Kentucky introduced me to Fly and Rind fishing in the mid 1980's. The Fly is nothing more than a 1/16oz. or 1/8oz. bucktail jig that is tipped with Rind or a very thin pork strip. To capitalize on the porks natural movement, it is important to use pork that is thin in width and depth. This will give the bait a nice action in cold water.

Tackle: I learned to fish these small jigs on light line which is usually necessary to coax wary cold water bass. I have begun to use 6lb. Flourocarbon line which works nicely but has a tendancy to create a little havoc on spinning tackle. You can get by with any of the thin diameter lines. I prefer Silver Thread or Sensithin. Thin diameter lines will allow you to get light jigs down deeper, with less effort than regular diameter lines. They are also less intrusive and less detectable than larger diameter lines.

My choice in rods is quite simple. I prefer an IM8 6' or 6.5' fast action light spinning rod with a solid backbone and springy tip. The backbone allows an effortless sweep hookset while the softer tip protects the line from breaking when a nice fish surges. I have friends that fish this bait on a 7.5 foot noodle rod with a 2lb. test on Candlewood and Greenwood lake. They do quite well, although I can't get myself to use a noodle rod.

I use a Pinnacle DNF 25 spinning reel or a Tica Cetus. Both have smooth drag systems, 5 or 6 ballbearings, instant anti-reverse, and are reasonably light in weight. I set my drag fairly light because the needle point hooks I use don't require a ton of effort to set. I usually back reel when I feel I am fighting a large bass.

Anatomy of a Hair Jig: I am very discerning when it comes to my tackle. Usually, I opt to make baits myself. This ensures that I am using the most premium components and that I can put baits together the way I want them. Being a somewhat decent hair jig tyer myself, I look for certain things when selecting jigs. First, the hook is the most important feature on a hair jig. People will argue with me on this point. I like to use the best equipment that gives me the optimum chance of catching bass. I know I'm going to lose a mess of hair jigs in a serious day of fishing but I expect it. I use needle point hooks only. If it isn't a needle point, I won't mess with it. Mustad and Daiichi hooks have become my preferred points. Both offer excellent penetration and strength as well as durable points that tend not to roll over on themselves. These hooks are also available in light wire models that will bend a bit when snagged. This is essential when working rocky areas where it it is easy to lose 20 or 30 jigs in a single day. The light wire will bend or straighten and release the jig. Just bend the hook back and you are in business.

The second characteristic I look for in a jig is a good paint job. I prefer powder painted heads over vinyl, but can get by with them as well. This merely reflects the quality of the jig. Hair jigs are the only jigs where I will tolerate paint in the line tie. Carry your jig eye buster!

The third trait I examine is the threads. I'm not looking for neatness so much as durability. Of course a neat looking wrap is preferred, but with the thinner thread most guys use, it just isn't likely. I tie my jigs with either kevlar thread or E thread. The E thread is thicker and goes on much more even than smaller thread. The most important aspect of the threads to consider is if they are sealed. Threads that are sealed with epoxy or speed coat will be much more durable than those that are simply pulled and tucked.

The next consideration is head style. Generally, most hair jigs are either ball heads or aspirin heads. Some jigs are slanted power heads and others are banana heads. While no one style can handle every situation, the aspirin head might be the most versatile. The aspirin head essentially is a ball head that is flattened out on the sides. I opt to add 3-D eyes to them and affix the eyes with head cement to increase the likelihood of them staying on.

The final consideration is the make up of the body. Many different materials are used by a multitude of tyers, but two types see the most action - craft hair and deer hair. I have used both, but have come to rely on deer hair. Deer hair in my opinion is the easiest to work with and stays together nicely. The hair can be dyed to represent an almost infinite color palette. My reasoning for deer hair over craft hair is that when in the water, the hollow deer hair tends to breathe or undulate. After a days fishing, the deer hair jig tends to go back to its natural form.

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"For this technique you don't want to give the jig any extra action other then the rocking of the boat due to wind and waves. The jig and pork simply stays in place and pulsates to do a tantalizing death dance. A strike usually feels like extra weight on the bait."
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I learned to tie the Float 'n Fly from Charlie and Eddie Nuchols of Blountville, Tennessee. For years, I used the craft hair which makes a great jig. I began to notice that once the jig got wet, it never regained its true form and that if you accidentally got a hook caught in the hair, you had to either rip it out or cut it. Add to this the fact that craft hair is simply messy to work with and you can see why I choose deer hair. I add flashabou, which is a material that looks like a string of Christmas lights, to accent my jigs. This material in small amounts can spruce up a jig and give it baitfish appeal.

Fishing Hair Jigs: Kentucky Fly and Rind style I was introduced to hair jigs for cold water smallmouth fishing. My Kentucky friend taught me how to use my electronics to find pods of suspended smallmouths. Once located all we had to do was lower a fly and rind to them. We didn't utilize a float. Instead, we marked the depth on our lines with waterproof marker and basically dead sticked the jigs down to the fish. We used the method when the water was in the high 40's to mid 50's. It was deadly and actually was the method where I took my first 6lb. smallmouth. For this technique you don't want to give the jig any extra action other then the rocking of the boat due to wind and waves. The jig and pork simply stays in place and pulsates to do a tantalizing death dance. A strike usually feels like extra weight on the bait. For the most part we worked the bait anywhere from 12 to 18 feet deep. I never got much deeper than that, although I suppose you could. This type of fishing reminds me very much of slider fishing.........the real way. Very little movement and a sweep set of the hook, rather than an eye crossing over the shoulder swing set. Remember to let the sharp hook work for and that you can only have 4 or 6lb. test line so don't horse fish around.

The Float 'n Fly: As effective as the previous method is, the float 'n fly system is even deadlier. I met Charlie Nuchols in 1994 and he actually helped me to develop my first prototype of the 1/16oz. Micro-Munch jig. He told me of this great system he had to catch Fall and Winter cold water bass. Being a neophyte, I questioned every aspect of his technique. Sensing my hesitation, he insisted on setting me up with several dozen amazing little baitfish-like jigs and foam slip bobbers. The jigs were like none that I had ever seen. Extremely detailed and very neat, I had to try them. In his note, Charlie explained the set up to me. He recommended a 6.5' - 7.5' rod rigged with 6lb test. He told me to place a bobber stop at a predetermined distance away from the jig. This would allow me to fish an exact depth. Every cast, the bobber would slide up the line and return to that precise depth as the jig sank. The bobber actually has several functions. First, it marks depth. This is important if fish are suspended at a particular depth. Second, it is a strike indicator. This may or may not be useful to you. Next, the float bobs up and down with the water movement and provides action to the jig. The technique doesn't require any extra movement and the wave movement is all you need. The jig is open hooked meaning that a simple sweep set of the rod is usually all it takes to set up. A long rod is required to flip this cumbersome set up out and to pick up line at a quick rate.

While most hair jigs techniques focus on early Spring, the float 'n fly is actually a Fall and Winter method. This is not to say you can't use it in the Spring. This bait isn't species specific either. It will take largemouths and crappies as well. This rigging was one of two original ways that the float 'n fly was set up. The second method uses a plastic float that is affixed to the line. It doesn't slide up and down and can't be cast. The angler merely drops it off the end of the boat. I prefer the sliding float method as it allows me to cast the bait rather than move the boat.

Shallow Water Sight Fishing: The hair jig is mainly thought of as a deep water bait for cold water fish. I have adapted my use of it to include early Summer shallow water sight fishing. I am a huge sight fisherman and I rely on 4 baits for this method:

1. 1/16oz. Junebug Micro-Munch Jig w/ beefed up 3/0 hook
2. Senko 9J Wacky style
3. 2 3/4" Gitzit
4. 1/16oz. craft or deer hair jig

I simply try to target visible bass in shallow clear water. I try to skip these baitfish look alikes close to an unsuspecting bass. It doesn't matter if the bass are bedding or not. This method can be devastating in the right hands. The key is stealth. Don't let the bass know you are there. Wear dull clothing and don't make quick exaggerated movements. I don't like to fish with the sun at my back because I feel that my shadow will spook the fish. My sight fishing approach is simple - if I drop the jig in front of a bass often enough, it will bite. I shot a video with my wife and brother in law. I have a small stock pond near my house that has a load of largemouths. I showed my brother in law the pond a few Springs ago and he wanted to fish it. I told him about the shallow cruising bass and how he might catch them. He called me all frustrated because although he could see hundreds of them, he couldn't hook any of them. I told him that I would meet him at the pond. I brought Kinzo and the 8mm recorder. I let him circle the pond before I started fishing. He went quickly around the pond and used his favorite baits and couldn't buy a strike. I used a 1/16oz F+F jig w/o a bobber, in shiner pattern. I would make repeated casts to the areas where I saw bass and usually could catch the fish within a few minutes. Glenn, learned a few valuable lessons that day...first, patience is key and second, patience is key, along with stealth and did I mention patience is key. I utilize a 5.5' or 6' spinning rod for this technique. Most often I go with a 6lb. line and, unlike the other techniques, I set the hook hard. This is a totally visual technique. You are watching big fish engulf your jig and you must learn to know when to set the hook. I noticed that many fish suck the jig in and immediately turn. When I see them turn, I set the hook. You must develop patience because watching 4 and 5lb. bass smack your jig can make you antsy and set the hook prematurely.

I simply pump the jig along by bouncing the rod tip a couple of inches. I work the bait slowly. If bass prefer a faster retrieve, I switch to a different bait all together. I work the bait about 15 feet from the initial splashdown. I then reel in and cast again. Try to keep the bait in your line of sight. This is one of the easiest ways to tell if you are getting strikes. Chances are, you won't feel the bite.

Most times of the year I don't use a trailer on either my sight fishing jig or with the float 'n fly. If I can't get fish to bite, but I see them scrutinizing my bait, I will add a 2 1/2" Northern Handpoured split-tail trailer that is either shad or craw scented. The handpoured trailer is often the ticket and always seems to get the attention of cruising bass.

Where to get them: For float 'n fly type jigs you may want to try Bullet Lures - 148 Rhody Drive Gray, TN 37615 or Curbs Jigs - 96 Wharton Drive Jacksons Gap, AL 36861.

Curb has some reasonably priced jigs that he will custom color to your specs and he uses Daiichi hooks. Bullet Lures is the home of the original float 'n fly craft hair jig. Everything about this operation is top notch. Detailed patterns right down to nifty paint jobs and Gamakatsu hooks. These jigs are a bit pricy, but well worth it.

For specialty jigs tied with other materials you should check out Phil Schafer. He ties some great baitfish imitators. Phil is known for his eye for detail. His patterns are realistic and almost too pretty to fish. Phil's jigs are super high quality and every attention to detail is followed. You can reach him at pws4@yahoo.com.

I get many of my specialty jigs from Paul Jensen of Jensen Jigs - 526 N. Durkee St. Appleton, WI 54911. I have really taken a liking to his "grizzly" jig and Bou-tube. Paul has been tying jigs for many years and offers some unique, high quality jigs. One of my biggest concerns with baits is quality. Paul uses the highest quality components from Pro-tec powder paint to Mustad black nickel needlepoint hooks. He will also custom paint just about anything you can imagine. Although I don't tie as much as I used to, at times I will make up an odd batch or two but these guys do a much better job.

Scully actually lit a fire in me to write the original article. All of the threads on early Spring baits all led back to the hair jig. Mr. Jig's F+F letter inspired me to put this one up first. Read these two in tandem and you can't go wrong. Give them a try, these jigs are just so natural-like that they are bound to get bit.

Copyright © 2001 Craig DeFronzo

Craig- You know that I am fond of saying that certain good information will go in my "notebook" which I have renamed my "closet" because of the detail that fellas like you and the Pro Staffers come up with.

I appreciate your contributing this so quick, especially now that the frost is in the north country. Hair jigs as you have talked about here, catch bass when very little else will.

Much obliged. JoeMo

I'm off to Missouri! Glad you enjoyed it.

When MMT comes back I will ask more questions about his take on the hair jig.

He looks at these baits from an angler's standpoint and also as a jig manufacturer. It gives him a unique perspective to seek perfection while keeping costs in check. It shows in the amount of detail in his reports.

If you have questions, ask them. I will jump in when the questions slow down. JoeMo

Joe,
I use a hair jig, or a combination hair-rubber jig, distributed by Gripper Bait, whenever the fishing is tough, or the bass are feeding on leeches.

The rigging can be found on the article I have on this site about an early spring jig combo. This same rig works for any time of the year.

I use 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 ounce sizes. The trailer is normally a 4-inch finesse worm, or pork ell. My favorite colors are black or purple.

If the main feed is on bait fish then I'll swim a white jig, using a white twin tail spinnerbait trailer. The flowing action of the skirt, and the up-and-down kicking of the twin legs is just too much for old mister bass to avoid.

Johnnie was correct about Virgil Ward getting his start with a jig. It was a feather jig that started the Bass Buster company, but there was also its companion - the hair jig. After Bill and Virgil caught a mess of fish on Bull Shoals Lake, with the jig, Virgil received his first $25 order from Judge Green, who was very impressed, since he hadn't caught a fish until Virgil let him use one. The judge has always been one of Virgil's prized friends.
Dan

Dan- Another fine post. I really enjoy those Virgil stories coming from the past. I don't think I ever saw a picture of Virgil where he didn't have at least one fish. And I'll bet hair jigs caught a lot of them.

Much obliged. Joe

I'm back, I fished Stockton with Phil Shafer, Pomme de Terre with a friend and a local farm pond which was hot despite the 30 degree air temps most days. Stockton was tough with most fish coming on a handpoured tube I've been making. Pomme de Terre was even tougher but I managed several nice fish on a dropshot rig with a "special" bait. The farm pond action was unbelieveable even though part of the pond was iced over in the mornings. Watermelon/red tubes with a 1/8oz insider head were the ticket. Several fish to 3.5 lbs. Hair jigs also worked in the pond. An olive/black creation I "stole " from Phil did the damage on bass and crappies.

MMT- Sounds like you did have a great time in the Show Me State. Of course, Phil is the maker of Phil's Jigs?

Good post. Much obliged. Joe

Phil Shafer is the Phil, of Phils Hair Jigs.

Craig- It didn't take me more than 2 hours to figure that out. lol

Any new techniques being developed out in Missouri? How about a drop shot rig with one of Phil's Hair Jigs on the bottom? (Or is that too old?)

Joe

OK, I'll let you in on a little something I've been doing this season with the drop shot. I'm assuming you know how to set the rig up. Simply a palomar knot securing a split shot hook about 12 to 18 inches above a clip sinker. I began to experiment a bit with another palomar knot about 8 inches above the first. This knot secured a small balsa shad fly. It is a shad imitating fly made of balsa wood on a small hook, maybe 1 inch or so in length. Deadly! My only concern is the durability of the bottom knot. Will the line be weaker because there is a knot above the traditonal knot? I did not have any bad experiences with it but I did not catch any real horses on it either. Interesting set up and likely illegal in Minnesota!

..or Michigan.

Good idea using the balsa fly. Did this work that well in a horizontal mode?

After reading some of these clever ideas, I believe bass fishing should be subtitled "Not the Result of Competition, but of Thinking and Bettering"

Excellent post. Much obliged. JoeMo

Surprisingly Joe, I ussually use the drop shot much shallower than most anglers. I would say that it is definately a horizontal presentation when I use it. Yes, I have had success with the fly this way.